Barry Kamen (22 Sept 1963 - 3 Oct 2015)
Barry Kamen is a British artist of Burmese descent whose work within fashion was a platform for a multi-faceted creative life encompassing film, music, and fine art
In1985 Kamen was featured in The Face magazine as a Buffalo icon, sparking the beginnings of a long-standing relationship with Japan.
During his first stay in Tokyo soon after, he began working with Rei Kawakubo producing sketches and design materials for two seasons and also modelling, walking the runways with Basquiat for Garçon in 1987.
Soon after, he was invited to collaborate on the early collections of Helmut Lang, John Galliano and Jean-Paul Gaultier in Paris and London.
During these years, he played a prominent part in London's edgy and innovative creative life. But while all this incredible creativity in fashion was happening, Kamen's work as an artist was also gaining momentum and maturity.
He had his first solo show of large paintings in 1989 to rave reviews. Initially, his work was expressionist in style and feel, influenced by the Abstract Expressionist group of New York and the hauntingly beautiful abstraction of Cy Twombly, with whom Kamen felt a deep affinity.
Alongside his paintings, his aesthetic approach was also finding its way into popular culture in the UK through album covers and the films he made commissioned by musical icons of the period, including Elton John, Diana Ross, Oasis, Aerosmith and the Rolling Stones. His unique visual style an integral part of many era-defining moments in British music.
While Kamen remained largely private about his art practice throughout his life, he began to show in galleries and to participate in important group shows of the time, that also included greats like Damien Hirst and Yoko Ono.
Kamen was unafraid of posing profound existential and political questions through his art. His abstract painting and subsequent artworks through the 1990s and onward dived within to explore the complex realities of being human and of being a British-Burmese man in the UK, with its colonial past and entrenched prejudices.
Kamen was fascinated by the entanglement of colonial legacies within many aspects of the British aesthetic, ranging from street and nightclub styles to the traditional pomp and ceremony of the British royal family.
And it is his ability to draw upon these disparate elements to create truly visionary work that sets him apart.
TIMELINE
Born Harlow, Essex, the eighth child of Burmese immigrant parents. Attends St Marks RC Comprehensive School, and later Cambridge College of Art
Meets stylist Ray Petri and photographer Jamie Morgan, founder of the Buffalo movement. Barry and his brother Nick Kamen become models, muses and collaborators of the Buffalo gang, along with Naomi Campbell, Neneh Cherry, photographers Roger Charity, Mark Lebon and Talisa Soto and others
Works with John Galliano as he establishes his brand before Galliano moves to Paris in 1988
In January, appears with his brother Nick Kamen in iconic edition of The Face magazine, styled by Ray Petri
Collaborates with the BodyMap crew and models in their legendary (NAME) show
Spends time in Tokyo and begins working with Rei Kawakubo for Commes des Garçons, collaborating with her for two seasons. Walks for Commes des Garçons catwalk show with Jean-Michel Basquiat
Works with Helmut Lang on his first four shows in Paris, including his first collection launched at the Centre Georges Pompidou. Also works with Jean-Paul Gaultier on his first show in Paris
Appears in Neneh Cherry’s era-defining music video for her single ‘Manchild’, styled by Judy Blame
First major solo show as an artist, in Jean-Paul Gaultier’s studio in Paris, under the exhibition title ‘Treasure’. The paintings sell well. The exhibition receives a lot of press attention
Designs the album cover for UB40’s hit album ‘Labour of Love II’
Designs album covers for UB40 album ‘Homely Girl’ and four Nick Kamen singles
Solo show ‘Treasure’ at Gallerie Vivienne, Paris
Begins his first major body of mature, abstract canvasses under the title ‘Caged Waits’
Goes to New York to design the cover for Diana Ross’ album ‘The Force Behind the Power’
Exhibits his ‘History of England’ series at C Wall, London
Exhibits the ‘Caged Waits’ series in Bearspace, London. Collectors who buy his work include: Helmut Lang, Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Tatjana Patitz
Exhibits his ‘Books’ series at The Library, Chelsea, London
Commissioned to make a backing film for the Rolling Stones ‘Bridges to Babylon’ world tour. Also films for Elton John, Diana Ross, Oasis, Aerosmith and Peter Beard (DATES CURRENTLY BEING RESEARCHED)
Exhibits his ‘and’ series at 3 Fitzroy Square, London
Co-edits and designs the ‘Buffalo’ book (London, Westzone, 2000)
Selected to exhibit work from his ‘SHOULD’ series as part of the ground-breaking ‘ARTTUBE 01’ exhibition on the Piccadilly Line, London. Other exhibiting artists include Yoko Ono, Gavin Turk, Vivienne Westwood, Juergen Teller, and Damian Hurst - all giants of contemporary art and design.
His art film ‘patRIOT’ is exhibited as part of the prestigious Polstar Art programme in Leicester Square, London
Designs the album cover for Nick Kamen’s album ‘Whatever Whenever’
Freelance Art and Fashion Director for PEN Magazine, Tokyo (until 2007)
Begins work on his major portraiture series under the title of ‘Is Is It’. He will continue to work on this series until 2011
Invited to spend a part of the year at the Kenyan ranch of Peter Beard (seminal US photographer and environmentalist). A large body of works on paper are made during this time
Begins to work as a consultant for PUMA (until 2015)
Also styles the influential 'Monarchy in the UK' series, shot by Jamie Morgan, for Arena Homme+ magazine (Fall/Winter 2009)
Meets Harris Elliott with whom he later collaborates
Begins work on his ‘Plaster’ series, using adhesive plasters as canvases for portraits and other themes
Is part of the PUMA styling team that designs Usain Bolt and the Jamaican team’s kit for the London Olympics 2012
Collaborates with Takeo Kikuchi on his 2015 collection together with long-time collaborator stylist Harris Elliott (many original pieces from this show remain in Kikuchi’s archive)
Later in 2015, Barry passes away in his studio whilst painting, as a result of a rare and undetectable heart condition.
His final work as a stylist on Boxer (in collaboration with photographer Paul Vickery) is exhibited posthumously in 2016 at the Exposure Gallery, London
The Barry Kamen Estate is founded by Tatiana Strauss-Kamen as Executive Director
Christie’s place a Barry Kamen canvas in a public auction for the first time. And he is featured in the Christie’s Magazine
Barry’s work is included in other group shows in major UK institutions, including Somerset House (‘Missing Threads’) and V&A Dundee (‘Everything but the Clothes’)
Photo by Glen Erler
COLLABORATORS
CORPORATE CLIENT
(Listed in alphabetical order)- Aerosmith
- COMME des GARÇONS
- Diana Ross
- Elton John
- Limelight Pictures
- Manic Street Preachers
- Natalie Cole
- Neneh Cherry
- Nick Kamen
- OASIS
- Passion Pictures
- Steve Barron
- The Rolling Stones
- TheFace
- UB40
- VOGUE UK,ITALIA,FRANCE
COLLABORATORS OF PAINTING AND PHOTOGRAPHY
(Listed in alphabetical order)- Herb Ritts
- Jamie Morgan
- Jean-Baptiste Mondino
- Juergen Teller
- Koto Bolofo
- Mark Lebon
COLLECTORS
COLLECTORS OF ORIGINAL ARTWORK
(Listed in alphabetical order)- Azzedine Alaïa
- Diana Ross
- Gary Kemp
- Georgina Goodman
- Helmut Lang
- Jean-Baptiste Mondino
- Jean-Paul GAULTIER
- John Mayberry
- John Taylor
- Johnnie Sapong
- Johnny Depp
- Kate Moss
- Linda Bennet
- Mitsuo Suma
- Naomi Campbell
- Neneh Cherry
- Rifat Ozbek
- Robert Elms
- Steve Barron
- Takeo Kikuchi
Plaster pattern image, source: https://www.barryboyart.com/